Lent Walk 2: Durham City's Medieval Pilgrims Walk



Kepier Gatehouse



ruined chapel of  Mary Magdalene





River Wear


 

The Dun Cow

  

Prebends Bridge



This was not the walk I had planned for today, but I've discovered I've become quite nervous about walking on my own in the countryside.  Bad news:  I never used to be like this (within my limitations of course).  But after a fews days of agonising, I decided to do a walk in fairly familar territory and save the one I was concerned about till later in Lent.  A good move as it turned out as this walk has boosted my confidence about walking, taught me a lesson or two and been good fun - and all this on the day Durham was the warmest place in the country thanks to the Fohn effect!

I parked at the park and ride and walked from the market place up to the cathedral for the start of the walk.  I went into the Galilee first to set the scene and then set off.  The first bit was easy, up Claypath, down Providence Row and then along the Sands to Kepier gatehouse.  I'd never been that far along before and so was pleased with myself at discovering a great new walk by the river.  Kepier was one of the city's leper hospitals and judging by the size of the gatehouse it must have been huge.  The idea of this walk was to link all the medieval hospitals.  I got it from a book 100 Walks in County Durham. 

The walk looped back and uphill to the ruined chapel of Mary Magdalene which I have passed loads of times in the car and on into Gilesgate, down a steep bank to the college of St Hild and St Bede and then the river.  The weather was glorious, just like a summer day as I crossed over by Bath Bridge and walked along the other bank.  Here the whole enterprise could have failed as there was a gate across the path at the rowing club, but when I spotted a couple of locals just going round it, I did the same and continued back to the river (the twists and turns of the Wear will always defeat me), Maiden Castle, the main road and Houghall woods.

I was feeling quite confident now, as I've walked in Houghall woods before but it was here that things started to fall apart a bit.  For one thing, I was far too hot, for another I didn't stop for a rest and I didn't have a drink with me.  I followed the directions along the old wagonway and then a slight hiccup as I misread the book and ended up walking a footpath along a field edge - away and not towards Durham!  The good point about this was that I was not worried, in fact I was enjoying the birdsong and the countryside.  Houghall Woods will be so lovely when the bluebells come out.

Back on track, I made my way slowly uphill to the university buildings.  By now I felt distinctly jaded but I kept on, through what the book described as a field path but which is now university and a business park.

Across the road and down a lovely little cut to St Oswalds church and the riverbank the cathedral was in sight and I really couldn't get there soon enough.  Prebends Bridge was home to a class of overheated and over-exicited school children so I didn't pause to wonder if any more of the bishop's treasures were still at the bottom of the Wear.

At last the cathedral!  and a welcome cup of tea before visiting St Cuthbert's shrine.  Was I meditating or was I asleep?

Lent Walk 1: Shepherds Dene labyrinth

For Lent I thought I'd do some walks with a reflective or pilgrimage quality to them, and I naturally thought of the labyrinth at Shepherds Dene.  It's been there for ten years this year, apparently.  I've walked it a couple of times before and remember it as slightly rough and boggy but today it was fine, the paths were clear and no water lying around.  For those who care about such things, it's an eleven branched labyrinth, modelled on the one in Chartres cathedral.  I guess it took me just 15 minutes to walk slowly in and out, and as with any labyrinth it's a fab experience.  I don't know if its because this one is on a slope or what, but the way in and the way out always look and feel different.  Different views, different perspectives, and of course the beauty of the labyrinth is that you can't get lost or go wrong.  You just keep putting one foot in front of the other and you complete the journey.
I went today with all kinds of stuff going on in my head, and it all unravelled and rewound as I walked.  By the end of the walk I felt more focussed and by the end of the day future options had begun to become clearer.

On the beach, South Shields

I had a morning to do this walk and a sore foot, but it was a route I've done a few times before and I'm sure the exercise helped the foot.  Here's where I went.
I went through Westoe Village, all gorgeous, spring flowers in evidence and then through the allotments, across Bamburgh Avenue, Kingsway and then across the coast road onto the Leas and down to the beach.  The allotments look incredibly well groomed these days, some people obviously take a lot of pride and care in their plot.
As for the beach, well the tide was in and the waves roared to the shore.  The sand looked clean and lovely.  There were dog walkers and the occasional jogger around but enough space for all of us.  I turned back at one point and watched the waves curving in, spray blown back like hair, the sun catching them and making them shine like silver.  Easy to see how tales of mermaids, white horses, Neptune himself, arose.
It wasn't easy to walk of the sand and I was conscious of need to hurry to get back and get ready for work, so I wasn't in the best frame of mind to enjoy the beach to its full.
I made my way from the pier pavilion back up Ocean Road, noting new and exciting looking Indian restaurants along the way.  It's time I had another curry!  Up to the Town Hall and home along Chichester Road.  All done in an hour and a half and still got to work on time!

An ordinary day's walking

This is my walk of the week.  Not very earth-shattering I'm afraid but then I never said all my walks would be.  This is just bread and butter walking, like I used to do before I owned a car (almost).
OK, but I did start off in the car.  It was a frosty morning and being a coward I drove to the carpark behind the launderette and then teetered in to deposit laundry and head off to the building society.  It's been a long time since I've walked far on icy pavements and I'm a complete coward at it.  I either shuffle along by the wall or walk out in the road.  I worry about slipping on black ice.  Hence it took me twice as long to get down to Fowler Street as it would normally have done and I was too panicky to take much notice of my surroundings. 
Coming back was a little better as it had warmed up a bit and I considered a short cut on a path across a green space.  Then I spotted my other pet hate - an unsupervised dog and a large one at that.  It was just snuffling around harmlessly but I couldn't do it, I had to go the long way to avoid it.
What with dogs and ice, it's amazing that I manage to leave the house at all some days.  But I did make it out again in the afternoon.  This time I drove to the edge of town where I could park an hour for free and walked down to the dentists (yet another pet hate).  In the good old days no cars would have been involved I would have and could have walked the lot.  Could I still?  Bit of a sore right foot at the moment, call it arthritis, old age, whatever.  I probably could have walked it all, just not in stilettos...

Holiday Day 16: The last holiday walk

So, the end of two weeks!  Gone too quickly of course and I still have loads to do, but it's been a good time.  The boots got another airing today as the tiny amount of snow had frozen overnight and the paths were slippery, although things were starting to thaw when I left the house.  I'll freely admit that I'm a coward about walking in icy conditions, so despite the promise of non-slip soles I still teetered along nervously.  Footsteps behind me:  a friend from down the road striding out in ordinary shoes and overtaking me as  she sped to church to get the coffee on.  Heigh ho!  warm boots but not magic ones I guess.  I continued my careful way until I too arrived at church.  After service, the paths were completely clear in places that the sun had reached but I think some of the ice will linger to haunt me tomorrow as I make my way to work.

Holiday Day 15: These boots were made for walking (in the snow)

It must have been a bit of a slow news week, as journalists have seized upon the mere mention of snow in the weather forecast to unleash front page stories ranging from the start of a new ice age to salvation for the fruit crop of Britain (needs a cold snap to germinate, apparently).
At any rate, the white stuff was due to arrive today so they said, and I therefore took the opportunity to dig out the waterproof boots with warm lining and soles that grip which I had bought in anticipation of another winter like last.
By 2pm a feeble amount of snow was falling and beginning to lie.  I donned thick jumpers, waterproofs and the new boots and set out to christen them in at least some snow.  I just did a quick circuit of the local houses, again marvelling at people's taste in garden ornaments.  One house had an ornamental frog that appeared to be smoking a spliff.  Now just why would you want that in your front garden?
So that was it, a short walk but it did get the blood moving and I felt warm and relaxed by the time I got home.  And the boots? - feet toasty warm, no wet toes, a good investment I'd say.

Holiday Day 14: Halcyon ways

It's surprising how you soon slip back into familiarity with places.  Today I walked through the 'old' main entrance to the Market Hall without so much as a thought.  Only once I was inside did I remember that this entrance has been closed for about twenty years and only comparatively recently re-opened.
Later, I walked down Halcyon Road my head full of my own thoughts.  It was so familiar, and yet so changed.  Gone all the houses on the left hand side (now the multi-storey car park).  I remembered my father's friend Mr Whitehead who lived in one.  Gone half the market.  Gone the narrow lane leading past Jary's Upholsterers to the Highweek chip shop, Treacle Hill, St Mary's Hall, Bradley Lane.  Now we have a huge road junction, ASDA, sheltered flats galore.  Times and places change, and yet our minds adapt so easily.  For all the scenery was so different, I was still walking up Halcyon Road and still knew where I was and where I was going.

Holiday Day 13: A new view of Plymouth

OK, this is an account of a day spent walking Plymouth.  No idea how many miles but it must have been several.
We started at the railway station and walked along to Mutley Plain.  I haven't been there for years but the charity shops were still in place and so was the Swarthmore Centre where I used to go circle dancing.  The new additons were not one but two Polish shops, must be a demand.  Having done both sides of the Plain we walked down the hill to the museum and took in the exhibition about Scott of the Antarctic and the other excellent exhibits before skirting Drake Circus and heading for the Barbican.
We strolled along to the Mayflower Steps and the other memorials there.  Must have been a sad place of departure in the old days, but today with a bright blue sky (and a piercing wind) it did look magnificent.  We stopped for lunch and to observe a little urban drama unfold on the pavement in front of the cafe.  Had the lady dropped her keys down the drain?  If not, then why did she ask a nearby workman to lift the cover and look for something?  Who was the man in the red scarf who drove up soon after her phone call, examined the car and made another call?  What happened to the younger woman and the toddler in a pushchair who were there at the beginning of it all and then walked off?  Finally they all drove off and left us with questions only.
We continued up along the side of the Citadel towards the Hoe and then noticed paths leading down towards the shore.  Uncharted territory to us, so off we went on an enchanting voyage of discovery.  Down to the waters edge (much warmer here out of the wind).  We even noticed a mad fool or two swimming in the sea!  There are brightly coloured beach huts here, a cafe, plenty of places to put up a deck chair, sit down and admire the glorious view over the Sound.  We walked on and came to the (fairly) newly restored Tinside Pool.  I'd never been down there before and even drained of water the place has a certain art deco feel, and photos on display boards show just how popular it was in the 1950s.  What a refreshing walk this was - sea and sun and general loveliness all within striking distance of Marks and Spencers!
We headed up to the Hoe, and thence the market and shops, back to the station and home.

Holiday Day 12: To market, to market and along the South West Coastal Path

Another multi-part walk for us!  The morning's was a stroll round the market in Newton.  Only a few sheep and cattle in now, but still a bit of the atmosphere with farmers talking in huddles to a background of bleating and lowing.  Then round the Pannier market and the outdoor market where we did indeed grab a bargain.  Made me reflect too how nice it is to come and buy your fruit and veg fresh and local.

The afternoon saw us striding out along the South West Coastal Path (well, a couple hundred yards of it).  We'd gone to Shaldon to view the wreck of the Girl Rona on the sandbar just off Teignmouth.  She was still on her side and the seagulls from far and near were feasting on her catch.  From the Ness carpark we walked up past the zoo and along the top of the Ness (signposted as the coastal footpath).  We took in the view of the coast from the vantage points and then headed back into Shaldon and up into the botanical gardens.

I took my evening constitutional around Knowles Hill at dusk.  Up Rundle Road, along Seymour Road and back down Knowles Hill Road.  So many thoughts in my head.  Glad to have the walk to clear them, in a place that fitted my mood exactly.

Holiday Day 11: Step aerobics Wolborough-style

This was an old favourite revisited.  Walk up Powderham Road and then through the park and up Jacobs Ladder (forgot to count the steps and can't remember how many there are) noting that nothing much has changed.  Pause for breath at the top, taking in the panorama of Newton and noting that several things have changed. 
Then it's along the top of the hill following the road, not the footpath to the church, to the junction with South Road.  From there we deviated from the time-honoured path by taking the flight of steps that leads down to College Road (I hope I've got these roads the right way round!) and then right down to the bottom of the hill and the junction with Church Road.
We continued round Decoy just to make an afternoon of it.