After last week I was keen to get another section of Hadrian's Wall out of the way. But you know how it is when a plan doesn't quite seem to gel. I hadn't really got organised about whether I was driving or bussing to Heddon. I hadn't really investigated how I would get back from Chollerford. Was it going to pour with rain? Should I have bought a lightweight waterproof? Time's getting on - maybe I could do the Durham Coastal path instead - but what about buses back? A quick phone call to Sunderland tourist office told me it wasn't going to be simple. The more I thought about it, the more I felt that I was going against the spirit of a walk a week. I wanted it to be about enjoying a walk as part of a daily routine, wearing ordinary clothes, leaving time for other things - and here it was turning into a monster that was threatening to take over my life!
So, today's walk required no special clothes, no pre-planning, no outlay on bus fares or petrol. I simply put on my trainers, said goodbye to the cats and headed off on the McDougall/Garrick nostalgia walk. Passing by Chichester metro on the way to Laygate, I recalled the photos we have of the metro station being built, also buying weekly tickets at the office and waiting for buses at Stanhope Road. Laygate is good old family territory, I remember my aunt talking fondly of the shops in Frederick Street, my uncle talking about the mosque (opened by Muhammed Ali), there is the site of the factory my cousin (and half of South Shields) worked in, the industrial units bearing the names of streets that were known to my forebears. Then on to the site of Holy Trinity church, across the road and down past the Trimmers Arms to the riverside and desolation. I find it hard to picture this as a vibrant place, a river full of ships, streets full of men returning from work, the whole place would no doubt have been dirty, dangerous and noisy but there would have been some pride there. Where is our pride now? The docks are derelict, factories and works are closed and the sites locked, barred and bolted. How can we salvage any satisfaction in a job well done?
Further along the riverside the Customs House and the Mill Dam are restored and presentable but the whole heritage is gone. Now there are supermarkets and call centres - all built since I came to live here. The town is changing, nothing stands still. It's been far too long since I walked down King Street and paid any attention to the shops. I spotted at least one new one and several old faithfuls now gone. Along Ocean Road there were new names and new shop fronts too. I realised the cause of my restlessness - ten years ago at Wooler I heard that my mother had died. Do I really remember walking with her and my father on the Lawe Top when I was a young child, or do I just think I do?
The beach I happily discovered is still a 'thin' place were you can think spiritually and be in quiet watching the waves and the sand. And then it was home, via Westoe Village. Not a route march, maybe not much of an achievement physically but it was everything a walk used to be for me. I must do more of it. Oh, and I will do the Wall as well!
Tuesday, 8 May 2012
Tuesday, 1 May 2012
Hadrian's Wall Walk: Wallsend to Heddon-on-the-Wall
When I began to think about my weekly walks, at the back end of 2011, I found the Long Distance Walkers website http://www.ldwa.co.uk/ and my mind turned to perhaps a challenge (for me) walking a long distance path in sections. The Hadrian's Wall Walk was the obvious choice as it's nearby and when I found I could get a certificate for doing it, my fate was sealed. The summer passport for the walk runs from May to October so what better day than the first of May to begin.
I have to say though that I felt very self conscious arriving at Segedunum to begin the walk. 'Aren't you a bit old for this?' I imagined the reception staff saying. Or maybe the Hadrian's Wall Walk fashion police would leap from behind the desk shouting 'She's not wearing Berghaus! Stop that woman!'. Neither of these scenarios came to pass and at 10. 35am I was striding out between Swan Hunters and Segedunum heading for Newcastle.
The way is well signposted but I carried my trusty guidebook on loan from the local public library, and learning from my previous walking experiences, I carried some lunch, plenty to drink, and worn layers of clothing. I am not, though, a seasoned walker yet - no base layer for me, no map in a plastic cover, no labels worth a second glance. If I do walk the whole wall walk I will have to consider kit. I realised today that I would need to carry waterproofs, an extra jumper, who knows what else. Today, in the sunshine, I walked in shirt sleeves, remembering how uncomfortable I had been on the Durham walk when I got too hot.
The goegraphy of the walk is well laid out in books and signposts. For me it turned into a bit of a walk through time. Walking along the riverside path I remembered river trips in the Shields ferry, I remembered by first walks along the Quayside as a new resident of the North East. I enjoyed hearing the kittiwakes, being able to name the buildings and the bridges, having a bit of a back story in the area now. There are some lovely houses at St Peters Basin too (sigh).
The west end of the city is special to me and the walk along the site of the Armstrong works towards Scotswood Road is lovely. I'd seen cowslips earlier on, and saw more here (The North East's regional flower?). I tried but failed to imagine the Scotswood Road I had seen in old photographs, alive and bustling, now a slightly anonymous dual carriageway. The path continued along an old railway line taking me towards my next challenge.
At Denton Dene the path crossed the A1 via a footbridge to Bells Close. I had thought the bridge had solid side - it had railings. I'm not good with heights, not good at all. No one else was around to help me. I dithered for ages. I gave myself all the pep talks, I tried to walk the bridge but turned back. The next signpost was tantalisingly visable across the bridge if only I could get there. I considered going back to the riverside and continuing along there, I considered walking up to Denton Burn and crossing the road there. Too much precious time would be wasted. Suddenly I surprised myself by putting my head down and walking across! I didn't enjoy it, but I was quite euphoric about it and promised myself an icecream at Newburn Riverside.
I'd been good to myself with a lunchbreak and a sit down at the Quayside, by the time I got to Newburn I was ready for more rest. Sadly, the icecream van wasn't there, but I had more water and a piece of cake and wondered if I should stop now, or continue on to Heddon. I was conscious of the time I'd lost at the bridge. The sight of two elderly walkers (in regulation gear and striding out like youngsters) decided me to carry on. I was feeling slightly stiff and as I had passed the 10 mile post as it were, I was into new walking territory for me. I managed the last section uphill to Heddon without much trouble, though I had definitely slowed down, and was in time to catch the 4pm bus to the city centre.
Well, one section down, five more to go. How will I cope with the more challenging middle sections?
I have to say though that I felt very self conscious arriving at Segedunum to begin the walk. 'Aren't you a bit old for this?' I imagined the reception staff saying. Or maybe the Hadrian's Wall Walk fashion police would leap from behind the desk shouting 'She's not wearing Berghaus! Stop that woman!'. Neither of these scenarios came to pass and at 10. 35am I was striding out between Swan Hunters and Segedunum heading for Newcastle.
The way is well signposted but I carried my trusty guidebook on loan from the local public library, and learning from my previous walking experiences, I carried some lunch, plenty to drink, and worn layers of clothing. I am not, though, a seasoned walker yet - no base layer for me, no map in a plastic cover, no labels worth a second glance. If I do walk the whole wall walk I will have to consider kit. I realised today that I would need to carry waterproofs, an extra jumper, who knows what else. Today, in the sunshine, I walked in shirt sleeves, remembering how uncomfortable I had been on the Durham walk when I got too hot.
The goegraphy of the walk is well laid out in books and signposts. For me it turned into a bit of a walk through time. Walking along the riverside path I remembered river trips in the Shields ferry, I remembered by first walks along the Quayside as a new resident of the North East. I enjoyed hearing the kittiwakes, being able to name the buildings and the bridges, having a bit of a back story in the area now. There are some lovely houses at St Peters Basin too (sigh).
The west end of the city is special to me and the walk along the site of the Armstrong works towards Scotswood Road is lovely. I'd seen cowslips earlier on, and saw more here (The North East's regional flower?). I tried but failed to imagine the Scotswood Road I had seen in old photographs, alive and bustling, now a slightly anonymous dual carriageway. The path continued along an old railway line taking me towards my next challenge.
At Denton Dene the path crossed the A1 via a footbridge to Bells Close. I had thought the bridge had solid side - it had railings. I'm not good with heights, not good at all. No one else was around to help me. I dithered for ages. I gave myself all the pep talks, I tried to walk the bridge but turned back. The next signpost was tantalisingly visable across the bridge if only I could get there. I considered going back to the riverside and continuing along there, I considered walking up to Denton Burn and crossing the road there. Too much precious time would be wasted. Suddenly I surprised myself by putting my head down and walking across! I didn't enjoy it, but I was quite euphoric about it and promised myself an icecream at Newburn Riverside.
I'd been good to myself with a lunchbreak and a sit down at the Quayside, by the time I got to Newburn I was ready for more rest. Sadly, the icecream van wasn't there, but I had more water and a piece of cake and wondered if I should stop now, or continue on to Heddon. I was conscious of the time I'd lost at the bridge. The sight of two elderly walkers (in regulation gear and striding out like youngsters) decided me to carry on. I was feeling slightly stiff and as I had passed the 10 mile post as it were, I was into new walking territory for me. I managed the last section uphill to Heddon without much trouble, though I had definitely slowed down, and was in time to catch the 4pm bus to the city centre.
Well, one section down, five more to go. How will I cope with the more challenging middle sections?
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| Segedunum |
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| beside the Tyne |
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| The Three Tuns at Heddon |
Sunday, 22 April 2012
The Millers Walk: Whitburn, Cleadon, Fulwell
This was a free guided walk organised by South Tyneside council and led by a (presumably) volunteer who works for Groundwork. It had poured with rain overnight and I was in two minds about even going, but I did turn up at Whitburn Bents car park only slightly late and managed to catch up with the group as they headed back to Whitburn along the coast path. Whitburn windmill looks fab and apparently it is open at certain times - I'll keep my eyes open for that.
We then made our way to the farm entrance and path that forms part of Bedes Way to Cleadon Hills. It never ceases to amaze me how much things change in a few short weeks. Now the oilseed rape is yellow in the fields, all the trees are greener, even heard a skylark singing. It was all very wet underfoot but the whole group was suitably equipped with waterproofs and boots, gaiters making an appearance too along with walking poles. I'd debated in Aldi yesterday whether to invest in gaiters and pole - jury still out though they seem very good value.
We stopped at Cleadon windmill for a break and it was lovely to look all around. Then it was on to The Britannia at Cleadon for another break with toilets. Shame we had to have two breaks so close together but that's the way it goes.
The next part of the walk was all new territory to me. We cut through a housing estate and then followed a field path under the metro and across the main road onto Carley Hill nature reserve. This brought us back on the main road and Fulwell windmill which was closed until further notice. The leaders weren't expecting this so despite lobbying for a visit to a nearby pub, we agreed to press on to Morrisons before the next toilet stop. We walked back along the main road, and then turned down Seaburn Dene and Cut throat Dene (don't ask which is which). There was an intriguing chapel and cemetery to our right - might be worth exploring one day.
So, to Morrisons, then along the seafront back to the cars and home by 3pm and all without getting rained on, in fact I think we were all too warm at one point! A good day!
We then made our way to the farm entrance and path that forms part of Bedes Way to Cleadon Hills. It never ceases to amaze me how much things change in a few short weeks. Now the oilseed rape is yellow in the fields, all the trees are greener, even heard a skylark singing. It was all very wet underfoot but the whole group was suitably equipped with waterproofs and boots, gaiters making an appearance too along with walking poles. I'd debated in Aldi yesterday whether to invest in gaiters and pole - jury still out though they seem very good value.
We stopped at Cleadon windmill for a break and it was lovely to look all around. Then it was on to The Britannia at Cleadon for another break with toilets. Shame we had to have two breaks so close together but that's the way it goes.
The next part of the walk was all new territory to me. We cut through a housing estate and then followed a field path under the metro and across the main road onto Carley Hill nature reserve. This brought us back on the main road and Fulwell windmill which was closed until further notice. The leaders weren't expecting this so despite lobbying for a visit to a nearby pub, we agreed to press on to Morrisons before the next toilet stop. We walked back along the main road, and then turned down Seaburn Dene and Cut throat Dene (don't ask which is which). There was an intriguing chapel and cemetery to our right - might be worth exploring one day.
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| Whitburn mill |
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| on Cleadon hills |
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| Cleadon mill |
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| path at Carley Hill |
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| Fulwell mill |
Tuesday, 17 April 2012
Fenwicks, Northumberland Street, Newcastle upon Tyne
This was something I've had in mind to do for a while and today seemed like the perfect opportunity as I needed to go into town anyway for the evening but had nothing planned before that. I wanted to walk all of Fenwicks! I decided to take the lift to the top floor and walk round each floor and down the stairs to the next. What would I see? What would I still remember when I came to write up the blog? Here goes...
I entered the shop from Blackett Street, through menswear, toyed briefly with the idea of doing the lower ground floor first, but decided to stick with the original plan and headed for the lifts. The top floor was floor 3, I didn't even know how many floors Fenwicks had.
Third floor: children's everything - books courtesy of WH Smith, toys, clothes in abundance and all labels, children's bedroom furniture dept, a cafe (the first of many) done out like an American diner. I decided the best plan was to step out of the lift/stairs and turn left, walk round the outside of each floor and then back down the stairs.
Second floor: Felt right at home here, furniture - a definite hush in the bedding dept; haberdashery, rugs (and some at knockdown prices); lighting, TVs, doorway to Eldon Square shops, cushions, artwork.
First floor: Cafes! Numerous and well hidden, so well hidden that I actually had to complete the walk and then go back up in the lift to find them. They're down a little side alley and a secret staircase leads down to meanswear and Blackett Street. And ladieswear, lots and lots. A fab mix of colours and styles all at prices a charity shop addict like me wouldn't dream of paying. I'd like to find the styles of £1 though (sigh).
Ground floor: I'd become adept at finding the stairs by now, although they aren't well signed. In fact they are a bit of a nomansland, a little bit forgotten and neglected, a cinderella part of the store left behind while all the other departments prepare to go to the ball. GF was shiny,glitzy perfume and makeup, and a sushi bar, and a sandwich shop and a delicatessen (I bought a fondant fancy).
Lower ground floor: Patio cafe and a cafe nerro - never be thirsty in Fenwicks! and all the household gadgets you could want or need, and Diamond Jubilee souvenirs.
A quick wander like this took me about an hour, with time to drool over the rugs. I don't think I have done the place justice - it's a proper little rabbit warren of entrances and exits, cafes great and small. Sorry there are no pics, but I didn't want anyone calling security.
I entered the shop from Blackett Street, through menswear, toyed briefly with the idea of doing the lower ground floor first, but decided to stick with the original plan and headed for the lifts. The top floor was floor 3, I didn't even know how many floors Fenwicks had.
Third floor: children's everything - books courtesy of WH Smith, toys, clothes in abundance and all labels, children's bedroom furniture dept, a cafe (the first of many) done out like an American diner. I decided the best plan was to step out of the lift/stairs and turn left, walk round the outside of each floor and then back down the stairs.
Second floor: Felt right at home here, furniture - a definite hush in the bedding dept; haberdashery, rugs (and some at knockdown prices); lighting, TVs, doorway to Eldon Square shops, cushions, artwork.
First floor: Cafes! Numerous and well hidden, so well hidden that I actually had to complete the walk and then go back up in the lift to find them. They're down a little side alley and a secret staircase leads down to meanswear and Blackett Street. And ladieswear, lots and lots. A fab mix of colours and styles all at prices a charity shop addict like me wouldn't dream of paying. I'd like to find the styles of £1 though (sigh).
Ground floor: I'd become adept at finding the stairs by now, although they aren't well signed. In fact they are a bit of a nomansland, a little bit forgotten and neglected, a cinderella part of the store left behind while all the other departments prepare to go to the ball. GF was shiny,glitzy perfume and makeup, and a sushi bar, and a sandwich shop and a delicatessen (I bought a fondant fancy).
Lower ground floor: Patio cafe and a cafe nerro - never be thirsty in Fenwicks! and all the household gadgets you could want or need, and Diamond Jubilee souvenirs.
A quick wander like this took me about an hour, with time to drool over the rugs. I don't think I have done the place justice - it's a proper little rabbit warren of entrances and exits, cafes great and small. Sorry there are no pics, but I didn't want anyone calling security.
Monday, 9 April 2012
Walk of the Week: Souter lighthouse
On a fairly blustery Easter Monday, but not as rainy as had been forecast, I met Hamster and Wombat for a walk. They had suggested walking from Whitburn round the Leas at Souter and back to Whitburn for tea and cake, and who was I to refuse?
It was slightly sad because they are moving out of the area, so it was almost but not quite goodbye. We talked about the move as we walked along the pavement to Souter Lighthouse. There we walked across the Leas, dodging the golf balls, to the cliffside path. We do like near wonderful scenery. We remarked on the colours in the cliffs, the variety of seabirds and then I was shown the very bench where Hamster proposed to Wombat, or was it the other way round? Plenty of activity at Souter, including a bouncy castle, but we headed on towards the firing range and then turned inland and walked through the nature reserve. H&W noted that the paths had been improved here and a hide for birdwatching had been added. It was all new territory to me. Soon we were walking back along the roadside, and in no time at all enjoying tea and a rather scrumptious oat slice (Delia's recipe).
Walking with friends is great, and I'll miss H&W but I do have an invite to visit them in their new home and no doubt more walks will follow there.
It was slightly sad because they are moving out of the area, so it was almost but not quite goodbye. We talked about the move as we walked along the pavement to Souter Lighthouse. There we walked across the Leas, dodging the golf balls, to the cliffside path. We do like near wonderful scenery. We remarked on the colours in the cliffs, the variety of seabirds and then I was shown the very bench where Hamster proposed to Wombat, or was it the other way round? Plenty of activity at Souter, including a bouncy castle, but we headed on towards the firing range and then turned inland and walked through the nature reserve. H&W noted that the paths had been improved here and a hide for birdwatching had been added. It was all new territory to me. Soon we were walking back along the roadside, and in no time at all enjoying tea and a rather scrumptious oat slice (Delia's recipe).
Walking with friends is great, and I'll miss H&W but I do have an invite to visit them in their new home and no doubt more walks will follow there.
Friday, 6 April 2012
Good Friday March, South Shields
I marched to the market place today following the People's Mission band, for the Good Friday service. Memories of my aunt were strong, she told of 200 children in the Sunday School, all marching. Those days are gone but somehow it felt good to be walking spiritually if not physically where my forebears had walked.
Lent Walk 7: Bede's Way Boldon to St Pauls Jarrow
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| Blackthorn Bridge at the start |
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| Tunnel with graffiti |
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| a bank of violets |
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| And some cowslips |
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| the path by the River Don |
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| the River Don |
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| Entrance to the Tyne Tunnels |
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| Graffiti bridges |
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| walking under the A19 |
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| lovely mosaic on the path |
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| St Pauls, Jarrow |
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