Wednesday, 26 December 2012

Christmas walking

As always, it seems, when I am with family and friends I do far more walking than went on my own.  So over the Christmas period so far I've had some lovely little walks.

On Christmas Day we walked the seawall at Teignmouth past Spray Point towards where work was continuing to clear the landslip on the railway track.  The tide was going out.  The sea and sky were blue.  It was warm in the sunshine.  Everything looked beautiful.

And on Boxing Day we walked the back road through Decoy towards Kingskerswell to see the archaeological dig that has uncovered Roman remains, and the site of the new South Devon link road (only 50 years in the planning).  We passed old landmarks and old memories stirred.  An old friend waved from her car as she drove past.  And it rained, and rained.  Water ran through all the gullies.  The dig looked like a quagmire.  We looked at the view from the site - down to the Teign, Haldon hills beyond, green fields, streams, convenient for the local shops...

By  the time we got home we were completely soaked.  But it was lovely, warm(ish) Devon rain.  My skin feels soft, and best of all my boots were waterproof.

Thursday, 20 December 2012

Advent walk 3: To the carol service

A bit of a cop-out, this one, but despite my best intentions, Christmas has crept up on me all of a sudden and all plans for a reflective advent went out of the window and in came cake and pudding making, present wrapping, card posting and general planning for the long trek south.  But Wednesday evening was our carol service and so I set out to walk to church.  It's a short but familiar stretch now made special by a row of houses who seem to be in competition as to who can fit the largest tree in the bay window.  Lights twinkle from said trees in all colours.  Lights and garlands adorn the doorframes.  Cards and ornaments (a colour changing Santa!) deck windowsills.  Everything is festive and bright.  And believe me, with all that is going on at work Christmas cheer is in very short supply - no reindeer antlers and flashing earrings this year, no secret santa.  Grateful to the householders who has taken all this trouble, I walked on to Westoe Fountain where the council have once again decorated the trees.  My friend was waiting for me and together we headed down Westoe Road to St Michaels church.  Inside it was subtly lit with candles and tealights and a Christmas tree.  In the calm surroundings we enjoyed singing the familiar carols, listening to the choir, and munching festive shortbread afterwards.  I made my way home again past the glittering lights and felt that maybe Christmas had begun.

Tuesday, 11 December 2012

Advent walk 2: Seaburn beach

A cold and bright morning found me at Seaburn with Charles Trenet's 'La Mer' still ringing in my ears.  I suppose there are worse things than being unable to detached yourself from an absurdly cheerful song.  I did wonder what he would have written had he been thinking of the North Sea off Sunderland.  Even des oiseaux blancs were keeping out of it today.  The tide was coming in so I couldn't walk right round on the beach as I had planned.  Instead I walked along the prom to the dog and cat steps where I paused and watched the waves come charging in,  looking across to the pier where the white horses galloped on to the beach.

I turned and headed back and then onto the beach to walk as far as the fish deli.  There were a few dog walkers.  The sand was firm and clean and there was plenty of seaweed that had been washed up, still clinging to its rock.  As I walked back along the sand to the car, the sky was blue, there was a shining path of silver along the bay, tiny birds flitted about in the low cliffs and the white horses galloped proudly onward.  Monsieur, I have the soul of a poet - if only I could write music and sing...

Tuesday, 4 December 2012

Advent Walk 1: Shields beach


I'd had grand plans for Advent.  Time for waiting, preparation and reflection - all incorporated in my weekly walk.  But when the day for the first walk came, I found I couldn't settle to it.  I had to really be firm with myself to even go out!  In the end I bumbled along Mowbray Road with the jaunty strains of La Mer by Charles Trenet ringing in my ears. (I'm addicted at the moment and have to listen to it at least once a day!).

I intended to cut across to Erskine Road and then down to the beach, but the footpath was blocked by roadworks, so I ended up walking round two sides of Westoe cemetery (the two sides I don't usually see) and was struck by the war graves and the ornate stones to Shieldsmen past, including one who was 'thrice mayor of Shields'.

Once on the seafront I began to feel more in the mood for walking.  Down onto the beach via the walkway through the dunes, and there - the lovely stretch of the beach.  The sea was roaring in and crashing against the pier.  Marsden was in haze.  In the middle of busyness, the beach was a place of calm, a place to reflect on ten years here.

Black clouds were gathering, so I decided not to walk further along the Leas, but headed up towards the Coast Road.  As I looked back I could see the rainbow forming over the sea.  God keeps his promises.  I remember watching rainbows over the water with other friends.  Ten years!  Through the allotments to Westoe village.  Ten years!  And home.  Ten years!

Wednesday, 28 November 2012

Christmas lights walk

Well what a lot of weather we're having!  Wouldn't venture onto Hadrian's Wall without a paddle these days.  But as I drove home in the gloom, an illuminated sign near Whitemare Pool informed me that the Christmas lights have been switched on over South Tyneside.  I decided a walk was in order to see how the ones in South Shields looked.

Fortunately, darkness sets in early now, so I could leave the house before 5pm and be home by 6pm.  In view of the weather just lately I was clad in waterproofs, thermal hat and gloves and walking boots and thick socks.  I did feel a tad overdressed walking past Chichester metro towards Laygate.  The trees at Chi have been wrapped in blue lights again and look fab.  By the time I got to the bottom of Crossgate it was chucking it down and the waterproofs seemed entirely sensible.  The floral ship on the roundabout now boasts twinkling sails and a carpet of twinkling blue lights form a sea on the grass around it.

On into the market square where the trees also sport blue lights.  The effect of them round the edge of the market is lovely, and looking down King Street I could see white lights festooned all the way.  It lent a festive air to King Street, and looking up at the lights above was like being under a starry sky.  At the junction with Ocean Road stood a huge Christmas tree with a canopy of lights around it topped by a star.

On down Ocean Road where illuminated trees and fanciful swirling decorations on the lamp posts make for a wonderful display.  I turned back up the hill and back along Beach Road to the Town Hall where the Queen Empress presides over twinkling snowflakes, trees and curtains of light down the side of the building.

And so back home, still unconvinced that Christmas is quite so close, but enlivened by the walk and the spectacle.
The ship at Crossgate roundabout

Shields Marketplace

Tuesday, 20 November 2012

Store walk

Christmas is coming!  We have to deal with Advent first (and I have plans for that) but The Holidays have to be prepared for.  So today saw me spending yet another soggy Tuesday wandering up and down Northumberland Street and round and round the Grainger market in search of present ideas.  I largely succeeded I am happy to report.  The pig's head on one of the butcher's stalls made a slightly disturbing spectacle but that is because I am a townie and far removed from the realities of food production.

And so to my walk, today it was the length and breadth of John Lewis.  I add a link to the store floor plan so you can follow my progress.
http://d3aensyvlglrq6.cloudfront.net/jl_assets/pdf/newcastle_sg_16_05_12.pdf

I started in the basement, accessed from the Haymarket bus station.  Here are all manner of homeware gadgets and white goods, plus Christmassy bits.  I gave it all a cursory glance, planning to go to the top floor and work my way back down.   I waited by the lifts long enough to get impatient and then tried to find the stairs.  Easier said than done!  If you glance at today's CCTV footage I am the suspicious-looking one peeping hopelessly at doors marked 'associates only'.  Eventually I did find them, concealed as a fire exit and not signposted in any other way.  They were clean and functionally decorated, a spot of graffiti or two but otherwise safe enough and under-used.  I didn't see anyone else using them as I climbed to the second floor.  It was all downhill from here (but in a good way).

Second floor:  I emerged into the digital department.  I think everyone in Newcastle must be getting a gadget for Christmas.  It was buzzing, laptops, cameras, plasma TVs, other bits I didn't know I needed or wanted.   I strolled round to the comparative calm of the furniture department and began to daydream of a flat furnished from the goods.  On into carpets, rugs and fabrics.  Still quieter but such lovely stuff.  Are they looking for staff?  If you can't afford it, you might as well flog it to those who can.  I paused at the cafe but decided against.  It looked very swish but a bit dark (getting grumpy in my old age).

First Floor:  I took the escalator down.  The stairs appear on the floor plan, maybe I should have taken that with me.  But here - ah fashions!  I do love a good browse and there was plenty to see.  Charity prices they were not but everything looked lovely.  I could sell this stuff.  I did a quick visual check of the sales assistants and it seems as if they do let old people loose on the fashion floor.  Maybe my time will come.  And then I was at haberdashery, buying the bits I'd wanted to get but never got round to.  It's all here, along with fabrics.  Maybe I could belatedly follow my mother's footsteps into the haberdashery department. 
In the interests of completeness, I went through the childrens department, deciding that the Gruffalo ceramics by Dartington were wonderful, there was a knitting dolly (House of Marbles, another Devon product), and the cuddly Elmer (£8.95) is mine if Santa is reading this!  I paused at the expresso bar, a definite possibility, and gazed at the brasserie, out of my league.

Ground floor:  And so to the ground level, well Eldon Square level.  I browsed the handbags and the shoes, found the perfect slippers for our festive circle dancing (red velvet with a bow and a fleecy lining) but couldn't justify the £20 price tag.  Meanwhile in the perfume department a mirror smashed, it can only be good luck if it happens at work, surely?  I tried a little squirt of Kenzo Madly  and looked for the stairs or escalator to take me back to the basement.  Couldn't spot 'em.  And so, unwilling to cut a dodgy figure on the CCTV yet again, I exited into Eldon Square.

Shoulda had the map!

Tuesday, 13 November 2012

The Town Moor

I've been on the Moor for the Hoppings but would you believe that I've never actually walked across it?  Well, a woman's got to do etc etc, and today was the appointed day.  It was very mild and blustery as I headed up Claremont Road, crossed the bridge over the central motorway and onto the Moor!

I was accompanied by assorted joggers, dog walkers and students going home after lectures and, of course, the roar of traffic.  The main path is tarmac'd so I was able to walk briskly my thoughts running wild as usual and snippets of random songs flitting in and out of my head.  If I can find a clip of a group of people singing, yes singing the Highway Code, I will share it.  I bet my brother still has the vinyl.
http://youtu.be/Qngi_jSaXlI Hope this is it!  If not, it's the weather forecast - just as good!

The Moor is a little treasure in the town.  The Freemen can graze cattle there but the cows seem to have been taken in for the winter as none were in evidence.  Though I did notice hoof prints and trampled ground around every public bench.  Surely the cows don't come round begging for your sandwiches?  Blimey!  The path carried straight on past some man-made-looking hillocks and on towards Grandstand Road.  I paused a couple of times to pick out landmarks (Civic Centre, flats in Spital Tongues, Motor Museum,  Great North Road).

At Grandstand Road, I followed the path along the roadside to Blue House roundabout and then down the Great North Road towards the city centre, turning back into the Moor at a gate about halfway along.  The main path would have taken me back to my original path, so I chose to walk alongside the hedge, eventually coming out into the Exhibition Park.  I have vivid memories of doing this bit at night during a powercut on one of my first forays into Newcastle.  I got hopelessly lost.  And would you believe it, the same thing nearly happened again today in broad daylight!  I found myself looking along an avenue of trees towards the Motor Museum - should I cut left back onto the Moor?  This place did look kind of familiar - ah yes!  the mela! - stalls, fashions, foods, rides, music!  And how did I arrive here then? Ah yes!  Back the way I'd come.  So I retraced my steps and ended up back at Claremont Road and the short walk back to Northumberland Street and the homely delights of Fenwicks Christmas window.

Monday, 5 November 2012

Mission Walking

I know that Tuesday is going to be taken up with housework, so Sunday's walk will have to do for this week!

There were firework displays planned for Sunday evening in South Shields, and I guessed that the Ocean Road/Lawe Top area would be busy so I decided to walk to the People's Mission for evening service rather than take the car.  All that was left to wonder was how cold it would be, and how long the walk would take.

 Eventually I allowed myself 50 minutes and left the house wrapped up like an Eskimo.  although the day had been cold the evening wasn't too bad and the walking was excellent - just what I needed.  I made my way down Chichester Road and then up Hyde Road and along the side of Westoe cemetery to the footpath on Erskine Road then along the top of the South Marine Park, along Lawe Road and then Fort Street.  It only took 40 minutes so I had to do a turn round the block before going into church.

The walk was just right for me.  It was good to go up streets that I really haven't seen at ground level for a while.  The physical exercise was soothing (I had felt a bit out of sorts during the day and suspected that it might be anxiety-related).  And it gave me time to prepare for the service.

The service, as always, was uplifting, and it was good to talk to friends afterwards.  Then it was off to the Lawe Top to enjoy the firework display.  It was only as I walked home that I realised how much good my year of walking has done me.  For one thing, this was a walk actually planned into a daily routine, for another thing I was walking after dark and I didn't feel afraid.  I feel that I'm back to walking in the way that I used to.  A cousin reminisced to me recently how she was walked to the end of the pier and back after morning service.  I don't think I'll be doing that any time soon, but I will be celebrating the joy of walking.

Thursday, 1 November 2012

The walk of shame

It's been another week with nothing really planned walkwise.  So, Sunday's little foray into South Shields will have to do!  It was grey and drizzly as I remember.  I set off to walk to the town centre via West Way.  There were about three police cars at Laygate blocking the square, so I didn't hang about.   I walked briskly on to the (relatively) new pet store for a quick look around - nothing I needed.  Didn't even buy a tombola ticket for the German Shepherd rescue.  I was walking for air and exercise and browsing, not to buy.

I walked past the entrance to the Tedco industrial estate and St Hildas colliery (remains of) to Asda where I checked my bank balance.  Oh dear.  Well, the end of the month was in sight.  I looked at the clothes department rather disconsolately.

 What next?  Straight back home?  As I was out I decided to continue to look at the shops on Waterloo Street.  I browsed Next, and River Island and Debenhams and BHS, all were quiet.  I guess then, I was not the only one riding out the financial tides until next pay day.  I remember when browsing was aspirational - one day I will be able to buy something like this.  Not any more.  I still love to look at the materials and styles available in clothing stores but buying is firmly put to one side for the time being.

Perhaps I walked home a little more slowly.  Perhaps I felt more subdued.  But I know I still have options and that's more than a lot of people have.  And I can still appreciate the walking and the locations and the trees and...and...life is good.

Thursday, 25 October 2012

Night Walking

Plans for a walk a little curtailed this week as I volunteered for an extra shift at work.  The misty weather didn't help either.  So, in the end, my walk this week was to church on a misty evening.  The foghorn boomed.  The trees were still gloriously autumnal and very atmsopheric in the glow of the streetlamps and with the mist every present.  It was moody, thoughtful weather.  Walking down the road, my mind raced and roved over all kinds of ideas till eventually it was calm.  I promised myself to walk home the long way and enjoy more of the bittersweet melancholy.

Inside the church was calm, reverent silence, candles and subdued light.  After the service, a friend offered me a lift home.  We drove through the mist to home and she accepted my invitation for coffee.  As we chatted, she remarked that exercise is apparently as effective as mental activity such as crossword puzzles in staving off memory loss and dementia.  So my walking is important, but I also feel that friendship and human company is too

Wednesday, 17 October 2012

Functional walking

Little trips across Harian's wall and round Gibside are one thing, but how would I cope if I had to walk everywhere?  This train of thought has been prompted by the car's MOT appointment.  What if it doesn't get through?  How will I get to work?  How will I get heavy shopping home?  The thoughts were getting gloomier and gloomier as I walked back up Laygate from Maxwell Street.  I crossed in front of Chichester metro and imagined many visits that way.

Truthfully, of course, if I had to manage I would manage without a car.  We have excellent public transport in the North East and it would probably work out as cheap to buy a season ticket as to run a car.  Of course, my time planning would have to change - no more racing to work at the last minute!  I would have to fit in with the metro and bus schedules.   But I could read or knit while on the journey.  As for shopping, maybe I could shop online and have things delivered.  And I'd have to walk that little bit more for functional reasons and not just for fun.  I used to do it, as a family we didn't own a car.

Could I do it?  Could I take the plunge and say 'no more car ownership for me'?  The phone rang, it had passed, I could collect it.  I walked happily down Chichester Road, cut round the back of Storey's carpets onto Victoria Road and, pausing only to admire the crumbling frontage of Bethesda Free Church (my father preached here, even attended Sunday School), I paid up and drove the car away.  Another year of car ownership beckons, but maybe I need to learn not to be so dependent.

Thursday, 11 October 2012

Northumberlandia and Gibside

I've had some company - my brother - over the weekend and this combined with the fine weather has made for some lovely and memorable walks.  Here goes...

Sunday we travelled to Cramlington to visit Northumberlandia.  You know, the largest sculpture of the female form, made from colliery spoil heaps,  known to the wits as Slag Alice.  Yes her.  She really is a striking sight and there were plenty of people to admire her.  We walked up her arms to her 'third eye', across her chest, paused at her hips and knees before walking all round her.  It is only a matter of time before they are doing meditation walks round here, you mark my words.  What a landmark to imagination and creativity!  And from her forehead you can see Penshaw Monument and possibly the Angel of the North.

Next up was Gibside on Tuesday.  We didn't do the skyline walk, but instead followed the riverside walk which first climbs up a one side of a dene, then back down to the Derwent.  At the top, surrounded by trees and sheltered in the bright sunshine, it was beautifully warm and so so quiet.  At the riverbank the evidence of recent flood water was there to see but on this day it was a calm and gentle river running past.  It again makes me wonder why I don't come here more often, we are so lucky to have such a beautiful place on our doorstep.

We also slotted in small walks e.g. round the Angel of the North; along Shields beach; round Roker Park to admire the lights show; round West Park in Shields.  There's so much more incentive to walk in  company.

On Northumberlandia

River Derwent at Gibside

Orangery at Gibside

Tuesday, 2 October 2012

Heaton Park and Armstrong Park

With autumn now well and truly here, I think the rest of Hadrian's Wall will have to wait till next spring.  Let's hope I'm still up to it by then!

Today I was heading for Newcastle to have coffee with a friend and to visit the bank, so I decided on a stroll round Heaton Park.  I've driven by it before, but never visited.  How lucky Newcastle is with its green areas - not only the Town Moor but also a huge green lung stretching down Jesmond Dene and into Armstrong and Heaton Parks!  I parked in Heaton Park View and walked down past the play area and the bowling green.  I saw the ruins of the palace and the windmill and continued through Armstrong Park to the bridge across the coast road and the entrance to Jesmond Dene.  Tempting though it was to walk up the Dene, I turned back and followed a path down to the bottom of the park and continued along parallel to the road.  It was so lovely and soothing to be amongst greenery.  The trees are magnificent this year, really benefitting from the rain, and the autumn colours are beginning to develop.  I walked above the cattle drove (a little oddity I hadn't heard of before) and eventually the path turned up a flight of stone steps under trees.  By now it was raining hard and I stopped under the trees, sheltered from it all and enjoying listening to the patter of rain on leaves.  I was alone, and it was quite a spiritual moment, haven't had one of those for a while.

I followed the path round by where the Temple had stood (so an information board told me) and back to where I had begun.  It wasn't a long walk by any means, but it was a soothing one and I'm sure I shall return to it and to sample the delights of the Italian restaurant in the pavilion.

King John's well

Sunday, 30 September 2012

The Newburn disaster area

Having seen the TV footage, I knew in my head that somewhere in Newburn there was a block of flats with the foundations washed away, about to be demolished.  And of course you completely sympathise with people whose homes and businesses are ruined and who must be worried beyond belief about what will happen. And I'd been told that the road was closed and I'd have to go into the village via Throckley.  But actually seeing what's going on it something else.

I walked with a friend across the front of the almshouses, as near to the work as we could get. The road is not just closed, it is barricaded off.  Diggers shovelled earth around what appeared to be a makeshift dam in the middle of the road.  Apparently (so the man in the stores told me) there is a huge crater here where the earth and rubble washed out further up the culvert burst up through the road surface.  It all seemed a bit unreal.

We retraced our steps and went up the hill to try and look at the flats.  Even on this side of the dene, flats have been evacuated and paths are not just closed with notices and tape, but rigid barriers.  So we couldn't look down into the culvert, just sense the air of emptiness around the place.

The road was closed too beyond the school.  Here fire and rescue crews were still stationed and in addition to the barriers etc was a private security guard.  We weren't the only sightseers.  The whole place has a tense feeling, but thank goodness no one was killed or seriously injured.

So, at least one block of flats must be demolished.  Small businesses in the centre of Newburn will undoubtedly suffer as long as the road is closed (and that must be a long job, surely).  Bus services are diverted and for a few days Newburn was without any service at all (now there are shuttle services up to Throckley).  We returned to the centre of the village via a footpath alongside the churchyard, ending up at the war memorial.  A short walk, but long on story.

Tuesday, 25 September 2012

South Shields in the rain

Just a couple of little strolls this week.  On Sunday I popped to Lidls in the afternoon via Chichester, but I came back through Rekendyke crossing Eglesfield Road, Marshall Wallis Road etc etc having walked down Frederick Street to see what is going on down at the bottom.  Several properties waiting restoration or demolition by the looks of it.  One must have been a butchers shop as the old tiles can still be seen - pigs grazing happily in the meadow or something like that.  I hope these will be salvaged.  You can also see a sign for Axelbands where a signboard has been taken away.  Now there's a blast from the past.

Today, what with stormy weather warnings and instructions not to travel, Hadrians Wall along with most other things was out of the question.  So I got kitted up in waterproofs and boots and headed for the beach!  The sea was magnificent, tide roaring in, waves breaking over the pier.  I was secretly hoping for masses of sea foam such as was seen at Marsden yesterday, but there wasn't any (could have been at Marsden I guess but not Sandhaven).  A lone dog walker trundling his geriatric alsatian across the sand paused to point out a small black object on the sand.  I thought it was a black plastic bag, but it turned out to be a puffin!  The dog walker, who seemed to know about such things, said it was probably exhausted and probably a youngster and best to leave it alone, so that's what we did.  I hope it rides out the storm and makes it back home. 

Tuesday, 18 September 2012

The Great North Run walk

Yes, it's that time of year again.  The verges of the Felling bypass have been manicured, the Tyne Bridge is advertising BUPA and the equivalent of the population of a small town will be running from Newcastle to South Shields dressed in improbable and often impractical costumes and one even carrying a fridge (hope his wife knows about this).  Why anyone should want to do this is frankly beyond me, although I applaud them for their dedication and the amount of money they raise for charity.  Running has never held any appeal for me, but walking I do enjoy and so, marooned in Shields as I was, I set out towards the finish line to cheer on the troops.

I headed down Westoe Road and Fowler Street to King Street which looked busier than on a Saturday!  Despite the rain, crowds were heading down Ocean Road to the seafront, passing the spruced-up statue of Kirkpatrick of Gallipoli.  There are so many new curry houses on Ocean Road!  Time to visit again, methinks!  On I went following the crowd into the South Marine Park and along past the Bents Park (given over to camping) and past an incredible number of buses stuffed with the runners' gear.  By the time I got to the New Crown, runners wrapped in tinfoil blankets were walking towards me, having finished the course.  How can people still stand after running that distance?

I continued up the Broadway and crossed onto the Leas where a small township seemed to have sprung up - tents, burger vans, TV cameras, candyfloss - and where the largest crowd and most vocal spectators were.  The runners were streaming in, and the award ceremony for the elite competitors was taking place.  It was a bit of a ruck round by the Bamburgh but I got through, still amazed by the constant stream of runners.  It really is a party atmosphere round here on this day, and what a glorious finish on the cliff tops overlooking the sea!

I left the Leas, and headed over the Blackberry hills towards Horsley Hill.  By now I was really enjoying the walk, wondering as usual why I don't do this more often.  I was briefly confused by the new-look houses in Lincoln Road (they were pebbledash the last time I was there!), but then it was on up Centenary Avenue to the Nook and guess what - yet more runners!  I paused here to smile encouragingly at those who were struggling a bit, and also to get a good view of the Red Arrows as they swooped by.  Then it was back down King George Road and home.  Not the buzz of reaching the finishing line with your time up in lights above you, but I felt a quiet satisfaction that my ankle was fine to walk on now, and that walking was fun.

Saturday, 15 September 2012

How the mighty are fallen...

Stumbled, actually.  I stumbled in Mortimer Road, twisted my ankle on a stone.  It wasn't too bad at first - I walked on it all morning but standing at work all afternoon finished it off.  By the end of the day I was hobbling about like a good 'un.  So much for friends' concern that I should break an ankle on the Hadrian's Wall Trail.  I ended up using my walking pole (bought for wall walking but never taken) to walk round the flat.

Finally I realised that I couldn't rely on the sympathy vote indefinitely, and got out the ice pack and the tubigrip bandage.  Ankle fixed in next to no time!  But it did serve as a reminder, a whisper of mortality.

Wednesday, 12 September 2012

Wapping Street and the riverside

I always enjoy Heritage Open Days!  A combination of freebies and a chance to be nosey - what's not to like!  And this year I could combine it with my walk too.  So off I went, retracing my steps along River Drive, deciding against some steep steps down to Wapping Street and walking downhill to the junction  and then along.  It was a lovely day, but autumn is here now - rosehips and rowan berries in abundance.

I was making my way to the North East Maritime Trust because I'd never been there before and what a tret it was.  Inside was the paraphernalia of boatbuilding, tools, old photos, a DVD about the north east fishing industry and old cobles being rebuilt.  It was a friendly, working atmosphere.  You could walk through the shed to the quayside and there was an old foy boat ready for repair.  Thrown in was a secondhand book shelf where I picked up a couple of interesting bargains.  Perfect.  and I didn't even know the place existed, although I was told it had been there for seven years.  It's open Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays apparently.

On leaving I continued along Wapping Street to the riverside path.  People were parked up eating fish and chips, or fishing, I even saw a sizeable rat in the seaweed.  I passed the redundant Garland call centre.  What a shame!  A lovely looking building (better than some I could name on the riverside), in a fantastic setting and it's closed and empty.  Surely something could be done with it?  My mind went into overdrive when I looked through the window and saw that the staff canteen is there ready and waiting.  Oh for an entrepreneurial spirit so that I could open it up as a tearoom or a restaurant or a vintage market or a something!

I continued on past the Middle Dock (I think) with its stainless steel ships sailing nowhere, past the Spirit of South Tyneside reaching for the stars and back to the ferry landing.  A nice little walk and one to remember for future reference.

foy boat

Spirit of South Tyneside

Wednesday, 5 September 2012

Hadrian's Wall: Housesteads to Walltown

To be honest, I've been putting off the next section of the Wall.  Arriving at Housesteads so tired and unable to go on to Steel Rigg the last time, made me wonder if I really had bitten off more than I could chew.  Maybe it was too much for me physically, and trying to fit in with bus times was adding to the pressure.  So my plan for this time was firstly to check the direction of the wind and walk with it behind me, and to drive to the Wall and park at the finishing point, catching the bus to the start, no pressure to finish at a certain time then. Also, I wasn't worrying about organising holidays or such things this time, so I felt I would be in a better frame of mind.

That said, after I'd parked at Housesteads and was on the bus to Walltown I was still planning get-outs.  I could finish at Cawfields, or Steel Rigg, or even not start - after all I still seem under-equipped by the standards of serious walkers.  The bus route through the cosy-looking town of Haltwhistle calmed me down a bit and I resolved to start off and see how far I got.

Walltown quarries looked very pretty and I puffed my way up onto the Wall.  Definitely a change of season in the air now - the trees are starting to look autumny and there is heather blooming, though a few little harebells are hanging on.  I surprised myself by arriving at Cawfield quite soon.  It looked a nice little tourist spot, chance to picnic and climb up to the Wall, lovely countryside.  Then it was back up to the top and on to Steel Rigg.  I stopped here to eat lunch. (That was another promise I made myself, eat plenty and drink plenty).  I felt fine, much better than I had last time, so I decided to continue the three miles to Housesteads.

I first got cramp in my leg scrambling up the steps at Steel Rigg but managed to walk it out.  I felt quite confident that this was a familiar bit of the Wall, I have walked it a few years ago now.  How memory deceives us!  I'd completely forgotten just how steep the drop was a Sycamore Gap, had to scramble down that on my bottom.  And worse was to come!  For someone like me who has no head for heights the path above Crag Lough was sheer torment!  I must have walked it before but have obviously blotted it from my mind.  There was no one else around, the wind was buffeting me and I was scared.  In fact, I actually crawled on all fours part of the way, counting my paces and staring at the grass bank, not daring to look up.  Once I got to the trees it was slightly better as I could hug the stone wall, and by the time I met walkers coming the other way, I was walking on the path again and looking relatively unfazed, apart from trembling hands.  Once through the gate I felt safe and it was only a mile and a half to Housesteads.

At the next climb, both my legs cramped up, probably a reaction to crawling and tension.  I rewarded myself with another sweetie and soon it felt OK again and I was able to stride into Housesteads in much better shape than I had done the last time.  It felt good, walking the rest of the Wall had become possible again!


Cawfield

Crag Lough

hole in the wall roman style

Steel Rigg

Sycamore Gap


Lessons from this walk?  I will never walk from Steel Rigg to Housesteads again.  I will tie my hair up in a headscarf or hat on windy days.

Summerhill Sunday guided walk

This is the first of my two walks this week.  A couple of years ago I bought myself a season ticket for the Newcastle guided walks and really enjoyed learning about the people and places that make up the town, however, I didn't manage to do the one round Summerhill Square and this was my chance to make up that.  Summerhill Square is tucked away behind Westgate Road and is a little jewel. Our guided explained who had lived there, why there is such a lovely park in the centre of it all, and showed us where Robert Stephenson had lived and where a synagogue had flourished.

It was a glorious Sunday afternoon stroll.  I can't recommend the guided walks highly enough, and if you haven't discovered Summerhill Square yet, make sure you do so soon!

Tuesday, 28 August 2012

Uncle Larry's walk and South Shields beach

I always associate River Drive with my Uncle Larry.  I remember walking it with him years ago and looking down on the river, him pointing out what I should know about it.  He thought it was dead 30 years ago, I wonder what he would make of the housing, the call centres, the shopping. Maybe he'd be pleased, older people tend to be less sentimental than we give them credit for, after all a job is a job, and his generation certainly knew what unemployment meant.  So I wandered happily passed Dolly Peel and on down to Littlehaven.  It was gorgeously sunny and the Weebles (sorry, Conversation Piece) was as intriuging as ever.  It really is like walking into a party and seeing who is who.

On a day like today there really is no better place than South Shields.  At Littlehaven the waves lapped the shore and the estuary was blue, and on into Sandhaven where I could have had a beautiful stretch of golden sand all to myself, if only I was organised enough to sort out deckchairs, windbreaks etc etc.  I strolled along watching parents enjoy making sandcastles for their kids, kids splashing in the sea, women of a certain age plodging.  It doesn't get better than this, my spirits really soared.  And so I wafted home through Westoe village on a cloud of happiness.

Now for the confession:  I should have been walking the next bit of Hadrian's Wall - Walltown to Housesteads.  My last experience of wall walking has left me wondering if I can possibily complete this project.  But I won't be beaten, and the weather forecast for next week looks good...


Saturday, 25 August 2012

Walk local

Ha!  Bet you thought I'd missed a week!  Well, no I haven't, but my walking was curtailed by the demands of work and other commitments.  That's not an excuse, we should always be able to find time to walk.  This week's tally was a walk through the Readhead Park taking in the lovely flower beds and continuing to marvel at how green the trees are (they must have been desperate for rain before).  Then continuing along Cauldwell Avenue, Mortimer Road and back home.

That was Tuesday evening.  Thursday evening was a quick walk to the Co-op to check my bank balance and buy a paper.  BUT IT ALL COUNTS!  I refuse to fall into the trap of thinking that walking is only proper walking if boots and an ordnance survey map are involved!

Wednesday, 15 August 2012

The Prom at Clacton-on-Sea

Having been persuaded into a last minute road trip to Essex, I was quite prepared not to like Clacton-on-Sea.  But on a warm evening walking the prom I could see why people like it.  I began at the pier - loud, brash, typical seaside holiday - and strolled south towards the martello towers.  The noise from the pier lessened and even the windfarm out to sea began to look, well, quite arty.  Families were straggling back home and by the time I got to Martello bay I had the place to myself and it was lovely.  I walked on towards Jaywick and then turned back and walked along the top promenade past the formal gardens which are still nicely maintained, past the pier again (still going strong) and along the other way towards Holland on Sea.
Not the walk I had planned about 10 days ago, but none the worse for that.  Sometimes we all need to be out of our comfort zone, to have a surprise, I guess

Tuesday, 7 August 2012

Hadrian's Wall: Chollerford to Housesteads

My crawl along the wall continued today, after a couple of weeks stalling on my part.  Yesterday I made sure I had packed my rucksack, laid out my clothes etc so that I could wake up, get ready and go!  The plan was to drive to Hexham and get the faithful AD122 bus to Chollerford and there resume my walk, ending at Steel Rigg, returning to Hexham on the AD122 again.

I felt optimistic as I walked up to Chesters, stamped my passport and strode on to Walwick.  After all this was a 12 mile section and surely I could get to Steel Rigg in time for the 2.40 bus, the 4.08 at the very latest?  Wrong again!  How much was my walking affected by the fact that I've been worrying about certain things over the past few weeks?  Is this why top athletes go into a kind of bubble, focussing on their training and (Olympic) competition with no distractions permitted?

Of course, the scenery was still wonderful - no skylarks this time but delicate hairbells in the grass, huge skies and vast views all around.  I got the Black Carts where I encountered my first cows - super cows infact - they were huge!  And I'm sure it was only curiosity and friendliness that caused them to cluster between me and the wall.  I took no chances, having hesitated long at the gate, I took my chances on the road.  There were more livestock (udderless variety this time) further along, which caused me more hesitation but I found that a caution approach avoiding eye contact made them disappear off down the field.  Sheep are fine, of course.  I was also buzzed by the RAF, any lower and they could have cut hay, but it was a good day to be out in the country, or above it.

By now the path was seriously boggy in parts, involving detours and even the occasion leap.  I took my inspiration from a Dutch couple here, if they can do it, so can I!  But I was beginning to tire.  Was it mental attitude?  Walking into the wind?  General level of fitness?  Age?  Dehydration?  Who knows.  I stopped for a drink of water and a snack and then carried on.  I could see Sewingshields crags ahead of me and Housesteads was just around the corner!

Trudging on, the corner was a long time coming!  Any slope required a stop, and it was at this point I realised I wasn't going to get to Steel Rigg.  The tyranny of public transport!  Possibly after I had rested I could have continued but it was doubtful.  I walked a way with a young lady who was having problems with her knee which slowed her down to my speed going downhill, she then speeded away on the uphill stretches.  She and her companion crossed the wall at Kings Wicket and I followed sheep-like along a rough track whereas I think I should have kept to the other side of the wall. 

Eventually I came to what I assumed to be the run up to Housesteads as there were plenty of tourists around.  I was fading fast now, so stopped at the trackside for another drink and snack and a rest before continuing up the slope.  Then it happened.  I missed Housesteads!  As I tramped on along a field path, the tourists thinned out and eventually Crag Lough came into view.  The snack had begun to kick in - could I go on?  It was gone 2pm, and having walked this bit of the wall before, I know its charms.  I turned back and caught the 2.45pm AD122 from Housesteads car park.  I really had done enough.

Tuesday, 31 July 2012

Whitley Bay to South Shields

It should have been the next bit of Hadrian's Wall, that's what I had planned, but in the event I didn't get up early enough, and I needed an early start to be back in Newcastle for something else - and the list of excuses gets longer and longer! 

However, my plan B, getting the metro to Whitley Bay, having a quick look round the charity shops and then walking back to the ferry and then home turned out to be a good one.  The charity, craft and vintage shops were interesting and the coastline looked fabulous in the sunshine.  Sparkling blue sea, white sand, huge skies, and walking from Whitley Bay back towards home meant that I could see the piers almost from the beginning and so the whole thing was a piece of cake!

Sunday, 22 July 2012

The Diamond Jubilee Way, Dartmouth

Now that summer has turned glorious, there's no better place than Devon and Dartmouth holds a lot of the cards in terms of history and coastline and now it has the Diamond Jubilee Way to add to its charms. http://www.devon.gov.uk/diamond-jubilee-way.pdf

In typical fashion, Big Brother and I did not follow the instructions to the letter,  we started our walk with a stroll along the riverside, through Bayards Cove (stopping only to eat our sandwiches) and then onward and upward to Warfleet and the castle.  Everything is perfect about it, little yachts like jewels sail out of the estuary, the houses are all dream houses, and the trees are still in fresh greenery due to all the rain.

From the castle the Way leads along a field path overlooking the sea which brings you to Little Dartmouth Farm and the National Trust car park where the walk is supposed to start and where the signposts are.  We paused here to take in the birds and the blue sky.

And then we went inland walking green lanes, past cottages and farms and getting the most amazing views over the Dart.  The final section was a steep descent back to street level.  I'm not keen on steep bits but even I could appreciate the fine views - though not for long!

Once back on tarmac, we made for Chapel Lane to find the old Baptist chapel (now a house) where Thomas Newcomen was the pastor and where in more recent times our father preached as a lay preacher.

The day and the walk were near perfect.  I can't see HM walking it with the corgis these days, but she did first meet Philip Mountbatten at Britannia Royal Naval College, so I guess it is appropriate that Dartmouth should have a walk named in honour of the jubilee. 

All the scrumptious photos below have been provided by Big Brother, as my phone camera wasn't up to it!
Green lane

The new signposts

View down to the Dart


Kingswear


Fab view of the estuary


Kingswear again


Wednesday, 18 July 2012

Newton Abbot Footpath Trail

We have a leaflet.  It says there are 51 footpaths in Newton Abbot but some have been renumbered and some aren't used.  I couldn't find no 51 but then it is only about 2 yards long or something silly.  We made a start today by walking Wolborough Hill and then the Courtenay Link path down to Western Road where we were surprised to see that all the old hospital building have been demolished!  We thought the old workhouse buildings were listed, seems not!

Tuesday, 17 July 2012

The Causley Way, Launceston, Cornwall

I must declare an interest here, an amount of Causley blood courses through my veins, I have Causley in my genes though sadly not the one for writing thoughtful poetry.  My brother and I have wanted to visit Launceston and do this walk for a while and today was the day! 

Launceston is a happy old market town with narrow rambling streets, granite paving slabs, loads of independent retail shops, fab charity shops (don't like to name names, but the St Johns Ambulance may not be the cheapest but it has some glorious vintage pieces in it, while the St Lukes Hospice shop and the Rotary Club shop also have bargains).  The one thing to note is that although Launceston looks as if it is pedestrianised, it ain't - traffic comes at you from all sides!

To see the actual route of the walk and read excerpts from the poems the places inspired, go to http://www.charlescausleysociety.org/.  We found the church to be fabulously ornate on the outside!  The statue of Mary Magdalene was covered in stones, so local customs must continue here.  Sadly, we missed the zig zag path completely, but thanks to a helpful lady in the tourist information office, we did find the great man's house.  The website states that the walk takes an hour.  We took less, but we didn't have the poems at hand to read in full.  While I was slightly disappointed, thinking that we would have seen more, the walk did highlight some of the lovely and unusual features of the town.

Yes, we liked it, yes we'll be back to do the town trail, visit the newport area, the castle and the priory and check out those charity shops again...

Tuesday, 10 July 2012

The Park and the Beach

Walked this one last Sunday, but only writing it up midweek.  I did have schemes to do something later on, but the weather has not been good, so Sunday's walk it is.
Actually, despite a fairly dire weather forecast, Sunday wasn't too bad a day, so I decided to walk to the Bents Park to see the band, vintage cars etc.  From Chichester, I walked down Chi Road and along Westoe Road, then up Erskine Road via the footpath where the colliery line was.  I gazed at Westoe cemetery where apparently the great and good of South Shields were buried in days gone by.  I'm sure there was talk of a cemetery walk at one time but that has all gone quiet.  On past Westoe Crown village and into the park. 

There were a good number of people there but not near the crowds that a bit of sunshine would have brought.  I enjoyed the band and a Minchellas icecream and then browsed the stalls and the vintage buses and cars.  There was Punch and Judy too!  Still great fun - even with violence is off the bill.

It was then an easy stroll down to the amphitheatre to watch the People's Mission band.  Only a few hardy souls sitting around, and I only stayed half an hour before walking along the newly created prom at the beach side.  The tide was in and the sea and the beach looked great.  Why don't I do this more often, I asked myself yet again.  And so, home via Westoe Village.

Tuesday, 3 July 2012

Durham Heritage Coast Walk

I actually did this one on Sunday, but have only just got round to writing it up!  I've been waiting several years to do this walk - I came up on holiday once planning to do this, but had to return home early due to a bereavement.  More recently I'd thought about walking it and returning by bus, but easier said than done!  Then through my letterbox came a postcard advertising the Limestone Landscapes (http://www.limestonelandscapes.info/) and from that site I found that a guided walk had been arranged with return by minibus.  Couldn't have been more perfect!

And so, Sunday morning found me at Noses Point with 19 other people.  The keen walkers were frighteningly well equipped as always but I held my head up high and acted like I didn't feel inferior.  It was a mainly fine but breezy day and off we set along the coast path.  Our guide was a heritage officer responsible for this area and he explained how the landscape had changed from bleak industrial to a rare and thriving wildlife habitat.  Orchids were flowering in profusion, and a skylark sang overhead.  It was wonderful to walk along with so much greenery around.

Later we diverted onto a path leading round the cliff edge - not so much to my liking as me and heights don't usually mix, but I steeled myself and the cliffs aren't towering and the paths aren't right on the edge, so I managed with only a small amount of panic and hyperventilating.

Next up was a steep stairway down to the beach itself where the contrast between old industrial beach and new clean heritage beach was vivid.  Then it was back up the stairs again.  In fact there was a lot of ups and downs as we crossed the denes.  Apparently if the tide had been out, we could have walked a significant stretch of the walk on the beach. 

Back at beach level we stopped for lunch (keen walkers produced tripod stools, flasks, vast quantities of sandwiches, bananas, (and I bet someone had a kitchen sink there somewhere).  We had a granstand view of a white van getting well and truly stuck in the industrial mud.  Why were they there?  Illegal dumping?  Fishing?  No one was brave enough to go and ask, and we didn't offer to push either.
 
At last, Crimdon and the minibus, though sadly no sign of the promised icecream van, and back to our starting point.  I'm glad I waited to walk this.  I was with a lovely group of people and now that I could recognise places such as Hawthorn Dene, Blackhall Colliery and Rocks, Crimdon Dene, Castle Eden Dene it made it even more enjoyable.  And to crown it all, the new boots didn't even rub!
steps from the beach

new boots!


black beach
 

Wednesday, 27 June 2012

The Parks Walk, South Shields

It would have been a reasonable day for another crack at Hadrian's Wall, but did I mention that my walking boots expired in the mud last week?  I went straight into Go Outdoors at West Denton and bought another pair using my discount card, but I felt I should walk them in gently this week.  So I decided on a Parks Walk. 

In reality this is just an excuse to walk round town and do my chores at the same time.  So, a quick walk down the road, eyeing up the neighbours' gardens and noting that the roses look very nice.  Then along Stanhope Road to the St Francis charity shop where I spotted a rather nice East dress for only £2, but did I really need  it?  I dithered and when I went back later having decided I could make an outfit of it, someone else had pounced and it was gone - obviously I didn't need it then!  Next stop the Post Office then on to West Park.  It was so lovely and green - why don't I walk here more often?  Just half an hour a day, I could do it!  I walked to Chichester along Ravensworth Road and then up Dean Road to Westoe Fountain and past the college to Readhead Park.  The flower beds were lovely - why don't I walk here more often?

By now it was quite warm.  The boots were behaving well - no problems at all - but I was very hot.  Funny old summer weather we're having.  I had planned to go on to Harton Nook, but I diverted down Moor Lane and home to a T shirt.  So, the boots pass, and they'll have their first serious walk down the Durham coast this weekend.

Wednesday, 20 June 2012

Hadrians Wall Path 2: Chollerford to Heddon on the Wall

Yes, I know I'm supposed to be walking east to west, so this should be Heddon to Chollerford.  Let me explain.  I set off on the AD122 bus bright and early.  When we arrived at Heddon I waited for the bus to stop so that I could get off.  Bad move: you have to ring the bell I realised as the bus sailed on out of the village.  What to do?  Stay on the bus and walk from Chollerford was the answer, but then it started to rain. 

Now, much as I quietly smile at walkers in all th right gear, I do accept that you must be properly equipped to go walking - and I didn't have a waterproof of any kind with me.  Give up on the day?  That seemed a waste of a bus ticket, plus the embarrassment of explaining to friends, so I decided on a middle course.  I stayed on the bus to Hexham and then went in search of the cheapest waterproof I could find.  Suffice it to say that I arrived at Chollerford at midday with a £2 emergency rain poncho from Edinburgh Woollen Mills and the rest of the day there was bright sunshine.  I had six hours to get back to Heddon for the last AD122 bus.

I can't tell you how much I enjoyed the walk.  Out of Chollerford I walked along a lane under a gorgeous canopy of green and then through woodland and fields past a section of wall to Heavenfield.  I felt I couldn't pause long here, but I have been before with the Northumbria Community.  So it was just a quick icecream at the Oswald Tearooms before entering what was probably the nicest part of the walk.

The military road and a ditch (vallum?) were to the right and the path followed the field edge with truly magnificent views over the Borders.  I hummed 'Jerusalem' to myself and even croaked half a verse out loud until I spotted people coming the other way.  Truly a green and pleasant land.  I won't attempt to describe the walk in detail, in my mind now it is impressions of green, sun, gentle breeze, sheep and fleece attached to every gorse bush (I would have stopped to collect for felting but didn't have time or bag).  There were stiles, waving fields of wheat and barley, wild flowers including white campion, skylarks galore singing their hearts out.  The path was clearly marked and it was good to greet other walkers.  I think I was in company of Americans, Dutch and Germans as well as locals.

I reached the Robin Hood pub, stopped for my sandwiches and stamped my wall passport.  And then the time trial began.  I had two hours to get to the bus.  I made it just in time, having squelched through the muddier sections of the walk and with a flapping boot sole that had become detached in a particularly gooey bit.

So that's another 15 mile section under my belt, but it will be a new pair of walking boots for the next section!

Thursday, 14 June 2012

Ged's Way, Castle Eden Dene

The start of the walk

A mass of tree roots, now supported by concrete pillars

Magic bridge

One of the waymarkers
A day off that turned out to be fine (in June, fancy!) was the perfect excuse to walk Ged's Way again.  I found it years ago when I first walked in Castle Eden Dene and had wanted to walk it during Lent, but that didn't work out.  All the information I can find out about the walk is that it was set up in memory of Ged Traynor who was tragically killed in a rail accident.  It's a mile long contemplative walk through the dene with waymarkers sculpted by Michael Johnson containing words written by Linda France.  According to the Memorial at the start of the walk, this forms part of a 25 mile walk through Easington District, all to be known at Ged's Way.  I haven't been able to find any information at all about the longer walk but I'll keep trying.

As soon as I got into the dene I started to relax (rumours of big cat sightings notwithstanding).  The greenery was fresh and beautiful, the bird song wonderful and because it was mid-week I had the place virtually to myself.   I soon spotted the first waymarker and as I walked I let the words guide my thoughts.  Gradually my arms went from folded tightly across my chest to swinging by my sides.  I hope you people of Durham know how lucky you are to have the denes.  Further down came the trickling of the stream, flattened grass alongside of it evidence of the heavy rain that we have had.  Then the bridge, to the Celts crossings like this were 'thin' places where earth and heaven might meet, there's certainly something special about pausing to watch the water and the stones of the stream bed and look up at the tree canopy.

I don't feel I've done the place justice at all.  There are lovely trees, magical-looking root systems, limestone cliffs, the stream, the wildlife.  It really is a healing place, one to relax into.  I didn't continue across the road to the sea, but turned back at what I took to be the last marker on the way.  Here are the words written on the markers.

No wind or rain can wash away the good you do

Each leaf on every tree says live each day as if it were your last

Every night listen to the light of the moon.  Follow your own star

We are the love we leave behind

In the shade of the yew trees
don't think you have time
life is short
regretting is long
listen for the sound of the sea
the pulse of your own heart
live every single day
as if it were your last

Tuesday, 5 June 2012

The Diamond Jubilee Walks

A whole weekend off!  But how to celebrate?  With friends is the best way, I'm sure, so Sunday I strolled round the wonderful Newcastle Community Green Festival, ate nice food, heard lovely music,  enjoyed my friend's company and bumped into one or two others.
Monday it was off to Herrington Country Park on a sunny but cold morning to admire the cygnets, and the trees and the scenery generally and then off to the garden centre nearby for lunch. I should say at this point that food features at least as prominently as walking in this weekend!  I'd like to say that later on I walked all the way from home to the Lawe Top to watch the lighting of the Jubilee beacon, but I chickened out and took the car, but I did walk from Arbeia so that must count for something!
Tuesday it was off to Whitburn for coffee followed by a walk along Roker seafront and back including a lunch stop.  The friend on this occasion is always so smartly dressed it puts me to shame, and I salute her for walking the whole way, including a section of sand, in court shoes.  It just goes to underline that we can and should all walk at all times.  Especially when the sun is out and the coast looks fantastic.

Wednesday, 30 May 2012

To the town centre and back

Not a very exciting walk this week.  No tramping the Hadrian's Wall Walk, no prized destination, just a walk into South Shields and back again.  I was wearing a pair of shoes that I wouldn't normally have worn for walking and I have to say that having them stretched was a good move - they aren't painful anymore and in time will walk in to be a good comfortable pair.  I did explore the charity shops and the wool shops (new craze), and I did get my glasses fixed, and do some shopping in Aldi.  It may not rate too highly on the excitement stakes but it's what walking should be - part of everyday life.

Thursday, 24 May 2012

Platform 2, Central Station, Newcastle upon Tyne

I think I may have done this before, but finding myself again far too early for my train, I decided to walk the entire length of the platform.  Why did they build them so long?  Were trains once half a mile long?  Maybe the brakes weren't too reliable? 

I left the surging masses round the ticket gates and refreshment kiosks and strode out to the northern edge of the railway universe (I bet they were observing me on CCTV!).  The lines branch either side of the ancient castle keep and looking around the cathedral church of St Nicholas is also be to seen, as is the High Level Bridge and of course the Tyne Bridge.  Turning to look back down the platform I wondered how the scene would look without buildings associated with the railway - no station, no Station Hotel for a start off.  That would have been a shame, as these buildings have real merit, not just functional sling it up and knock it down again a few years later - these were built to last.  The grand sweep of the station, platforms and superb arched roof were fab.  And a stones throw away was the Stephenson Building.  Newcastle is not just a railway town, its THE railway town.  All this history visible from platform 2.

I walked past the waiting travellers.  None made eye contact, but how many wondered what the heck I was up to as I continued past them and on to the southern end of the platform.  From here the metro bridges blue spines make it look like the Lambton Worm fancied a day out, traffic sails by on the Redheugh, the Arena waits in the undergrowth, the Tyne flows softly on.

And so back to the central section of the platform, which is the only bit that gets used as far as I can see.  Not my longest walk, but you can't beat the atmosphere at a railway station, and all the longest journeys begin with a single step.

Wednesday, 16 May 2012

On the train and down memory lane

Am I the only one old enough to remember when trains had corridors all down one side of the carriage, and bench seats in compartments with doors?  You could walk right through the train, provided of course it wasn't a summer weekend train when the corridors would be full of standing room only passengers.  You could even gawp at the posh people in first class. 

Nowadays you have to walk down a central aisle following the refreshment trolley and the train manager checking tickets.  Coward that I am I didn't venture into first class (coach A at the front of the train) or the quiet coach (coach F as the rear of the train) for fear of starting a riot.  Hey ho, the windows don't have leather straps anymore either, and whatever happened to steam?

On this note of nostalgia my longest-serving friend and I walked around the hill after tea.  She used to walk it with her great aunt, I walked it with my father.  We recreated the experience together, admiring the view, pointing out changes to each other (new hotel, more clay workings) and remarking on the houses, what was new, who had lived where, where we had dreamt of living as children.  Times change but memory and place is a bedrock to experience.

Thursday, 10 May 2012

Newcastle guided walk: Spital Tongues

A couple of years ago I bought a season ticket for the guided walks and did loads of them, but this is one that I'd missed out on.  I was interested to know the history of this area as a McDougall ancestor lived and worked here.  We set off in drizzle and returned two hours later in pouring rain, but the whole walk was fascinating!  We followed a tree-lined path (the course of the Pandon Burn) through modern university buildings and elegant terraces where the great and good of Newcastle lived in times gone by.  Then on to the fringes of the town moor and the streets where the less well-off (like my family) lived and worked.  We learnt about the old colliery, the Victoria Tunnel, the hospitals, saw the oldest inhabited building in Newcastle.  More than that, the whole area has always seemed attractive to me, but the walk just enhanced that.  What a lovely little area!  Handy for everything, and it even has a windmill.  Spital Tongues, rotten name, great place.

Tuesday, 8 May 2012

Round and about South Shields

After last week I was keen to get another section of Hadrian's Wall out of the way.  But you know how it is when a plan doesn't quite seem to gel.  I hadn't really got organised about whether I was driving or bussing to Heddon.  I hadn't really investigated how I would get back from Chollerford.  Was it going to pour with rain?  Should I have bought a lightweight waterproof?  Time's getting on - maybe I could do the Durham Coastal path instead - but what about buses back?  A quick phone call to Sunderland tourist office told me it wasn't going to be simple.  The more I thought about it, the more I felt that I was going against the spirit of a walk a week.  I wanted it to be about enjoying a walk as part of a daily routine, wearing ordinary clothes, leaving time for other things - and here it was turning into a monster that was threatening to take over my life!

So, today's walk required no special clothes, no pre-planning, no outlay on bus fares or petrol.  I simply put on my trainers, said goodbye to the cats and headed off on the McDougall/Garrick nostalgia walk.  Passing by Chichester metro on the way to Laygate, I recalled the photos we have of the metro station being built, also buying weekly tickets at the office and waiting for buses at Stanhope Road.  Laygate is good old family territory, I remember my aunt talking fondly of the shops in Frederick Street, my uncle talking about the mosque (opened by Muhammed Ali), there is the site of the factory my cousin (and half of South Shields) worked in, the industrial units bearing the names of streets that were known to my forebears.  Then on to the site of Holy Trinity church, across the road and down past the Trimmers Arms to the riverside and desolation.  I find it hard to picture this as a vibrant place, a river full of ships, streets full of men returning from work, the whole place would no doubt have been dirty, dangerous and noisy but there would have been some pride there.  Where is our pride now?  The docks are derelict, factories and works are closed and the sites locked, barred and bolted.  How can we salvage any satisfaction in a job well done?

Further along the riverside the Customs House and the Mill Dam are restored and presentable but the whole heritage is gone.  Now there are supermarkets and call centres - all built since I came to live here.  The town is changing, nothing stands still.   It's been far too long since I walked down King Street and paid any attention to the shops.  I spotted at least one new one and several old faithfuls now gone.  Along Ocean Road there were new names and new shop fronts too.  I realised the cause of my restlessness - ten years ago at Wooler I heard that my mother had died.  Do I really remember walking with her and my father on the Lawe Top when I was a young child, or do I just think I do?

The beach I happily discovered is still a 'thin' place were you can think spiritually and be in quiet watching the waves and the sand.  And then it was home, via Westoe Village.  Not a route march, maybe not much of an achievement physically but it was everything a walk used to be for me.  I must do more of it.  Oh, and I will do the Wall as well!

Tuesday, 1 May 2012

Hadrian's Wall Walk: Wallsend to Heddon-on-the-Wall

When I began to think about my weekly walks, at the back end of 2011,  I found the Long Distance Walkers website http://www.ldwa.co.uk/ and my mind turned to perhaps a challenge (for me) walking a long distance path in sections.  The Hadrian's Wall Walk was the obvious choice as it's nearby and when I found I could get a certificate for doing it, my fate was sealed.  The summer passport for the walk runs from May to October so what better day than the first of May to begin.

I have to say though that I felt very self conscious arriving at Segedunum to begin the walk.  'Aren't you a bit old for this?' I imagined the reception staff saying.  Or maybe the Hadrian's Wall Walk fashion police would leap from behind the desk shouting 'She's not wearing Berghaus!  Stop that woman!'.  Neither of these scenarios came to pass and at 10. 35am I was striding out between Swan Hunters and Segedunum heading for Newcastle.

The way is well signposted but I carried my trusty guidebook on loan from the local public library, and learning from my previous walking experiences, I carried some lunch, plenty to drink, and worn layers of clothing.  I am not, though, a seasoned walker yet - no base layer for me, no map in a plastic cover, no labels worth a second glance. If I do walk the whole wall walk I will have to consider kit.  I realised today that I would need to carry waterproofs, an extra jumper, who knows what else.  Today, in the sunshine, I walked in shirt sleeves, remembering how uncomfortable I had been on the Durham walk when I got too hot.

The goegraphy of the walk is well laid out in books and signposts.  For me it turned into a bit of a walk through time.  Walking along the riverside path I remembered river trips in the Shields ferry, I remembered by first walks along the Quayside as a new resident of the North East.  I enjoyed hearing the kittiwakes, being able to name the buildings and the bridges, having a bit of a back story in the area now.  There are some lovely houses at St Peters Basin too (sigh).

The west end of the city is special to me and the walk along the site of the Armstrong works towards Scotswood Road is lovely.  I'd seen cowslips earlier on, and saw more here (The North East's regional flower?).  I tried but failed to imagine the Scotswood Road I had seen in old photographs, alive and bustling, now a slightly anonymous dual carriageway.  The path continued along an old railway line taking me towards my next challenge. 

At Denton Dene the path crossed the A1 via a footbridge to Bells Close.  I had thought the bridge had solid side - it had railings.  I'm not good with heights, not good at all.  No one else was around to help me.  I dithered for ages.  I gave myself all the pep talks, I tried to walk the bridge but turned back.  The next signpost was tantalisingly visable across the bridge if only I could get there.  I considered going back to the riverside and continuing along there, I considered walking up to Denton Burn and crossing the road there.  Too much precious time would be wasted.  Suddenly I surprised myself by putting my head down and walking across!  I didn't enjoy it, but I was quite euphoric about it and promised myself an icecream at Newburn Riverside. 

I'd been good to myself with a lunchbreak and a sit down at the Quayside, by the time I got to Newburn I was ready for more rest.  Sadly, the icecream van wasn't there, but I had more water and a piece of cake and wondered if I should stop now, or continue on to Heddon.  I was conscious of the time I'd lost at the bridge.  The sight of two elderly walkers (in regulation gear and striding out like youngsters) decided me to carry on.  I was feeling slightly stiff and as I had passed the 10 mile post as it were, I was into new walking territory for me.  I managed the last section uphill to Heddon without much trouble, though I had definitely slowed down, and was in time to catch the 4pm bus to the city centre.

Well, one section down, five more to go.  How will I cope with the more challenging middle sections?
Segedunum



beside the Tyne


The Three Tuns at Heddon