A Walk A Week: Hadrian's Wall: Housesteads to Walltown

To be honest, I've been putting off the next section of the Wall. Arriving at Housesteads so tired and unable to go on to Steel Rigg the last time, made me wonder if I really had bitten off more than I could chew. Maybe it was too much for me physically, and trying to fit in with bus times was adding to the pressure. So my plan for this time was firstly to check the direction of the wind and walk with it behind me, and to drive to the Wall and park at the finishing point, catching the bus to the start, no pressure to finish at a certain time then. Also, I wasn't worrying about organising holidays or such things this time, so I felt I would be in a better frame of mind.

That said, after I'd parked at Housesteads and was on the bus to Walltown I was still planning get-outs. I could finish at Cawfields, or Steel Rigg, or even not start - after all I still seem under-equipped by the standards of serious walkers. The bus route through the cosy-looking town of Haltwhistle calmed me down a bit and I resolved to start off and see how far I got.

Walltown quarries looked very pretty and I puffed my way up onto the Wall. Definitely a change of season in the air now - the trees are starting to look autumny and there is heather blooming, though a few little harebells are hanging on. I surprised myself by arriving at Cawfield quite soon. It looked a nice little tourist spot, chance to picnic and climb up to the Wall, lovely countryside. Then it was back up to the top and on to Steel Rigg. I stopped here to eat lunch. (That was another promise I made myself, eat plenty and drink plenty). I felt fine, much better than I had last time, so I decided to continue the three miles to Housesteads.

I first got cramp in my leg scrambling up the steps at Steel Rigg but managed to walk it out. I felt quite confident that this was a familiar bit of the Wall, I have walked it a few years ago now. How memory deceives us! I'd completely forgotten just how steep the drop was a Sycamore Gap, had to scramble down that on my bottom. And worse was to come! For someone like me who has no head for heights the path above Crag Lough was sheer torment! I must have walked it before but have obviously blotted it from my mind. There was no one else around, the wind was buffeting me and I was scared. In fact, I actually crawled on all fours part of the way, counting my paces and staring at the grass bank, not daring to look up. Once I got to the trees it was slightly better as I could hug the stone wall, and by the time I met walkers coming the other way, I was walking on the path again and looking relatively unfazed, apart from trembling hands. Once through the gate I felt safe and it was only a mile and a half to Housesteads.

At the next climb, both my legs cramped up, probably a reaction to crawling and tension. I rewarded myself with another sweetie and soon it felt OK again and I was able to stride into Housesteads in much better shape than I had done the last time. It felt good, walking the rest of the Wall had become possible again!